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The caldera from Fira, Santorini, Greece

Greece: Santorini - Fira, Karterados, Vothonas
September 2022

Fira Karterados Vothonas
The caldera from Fira, Santorini


Fira's wonderful Museum of Prehistoric Thera is full of amazing artefacts and the town has great views over the caldera; plus two beautiful peaceful villages.

Fira

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Fossilized olive tree leaves from the wall of the caldera of Thera, 60,000BC.

Our main reason for going to Fira was the Museum of Prehistoric Thera, so we made a beeline for it after parking not too far from the centre. Of particular interest were the finds from prehistoric Akrotiri. But the museum is also very informative on the formation of the island and its geology and climate tens of thousands of years before that.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Marble beaker found in a cemetery in the Phira quarry dating from c. 3300/3200 - 2800 BC.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Detail of a marble figurine found at Akrotiri dating from c. 2800-2700 BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Deep bowl and a closed vessel from Christiana islet, SW of Santorini, c. 2200-2000 BC.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Found in a cemetery in the Karageorghis quarry, dating from 20th - 19th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Marble figurine found at Akrotiri dating from c. 2700 - 2400/2300 BC.

Today Santorini is composed of five islands, of which Thera is the largest. Originally Santorini was a circular island, the top of a volcanic cone. A series of volcanic eruptions altered the landscape, creating and enlarging the caldera and breaching the rim, until a cataclysmic event in the Late Bronze Age, also called the Minoan Eruption, in the mid 17th century BC, left Santorini looking much as it does today, with a later formation of the islets Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni within the caldera. The eruption destroyed Akrotiri, covering it in volcanic material that preserving the ruined walls and artefacts inside.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Chlorite quern, Akrotiri, c. 2700 - 2400/2300 BC.
Querns are found all over the world from past civilisations, used with a stone roller to grind grain.

The skill evident in the creation of some of the figurines, jars and jugs from over 5,000 years ago is quite amazing.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Bronze dagger, Akrotiri, c. 2700 - 2400/2300 BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Jar, Akrotiri, c. 2200-2000 BC.
Broken into many pieces this jar has been painstakingly put back together. It's a beautiful shape, but doesn't look too stable - perhaps stood in a sand pit?
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Found at Ftellos; c. 2200 - 1800 BC.
This shape, with a swept-back neck, was developed to an extreme in later centuries in the "duck" jars.

 

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Akrotiri, late 18th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Pithoi with motifs labelling their contents, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
The pithoi on the left has a spigot at its lower edge and was probably intended for storing liquids, or maybe for draining off liquids from fruits - Middle Eastern cultures collected date juice from piled up sacks of dates.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Bronze incense burner, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Offering table with dolphins, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Wall paintings from the House of the Ladies, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
A boar's head rhyton, ritual vessel, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Bridge-spouted jugs and cups, on the left Minoan (from Crete) on the right Theran imitations; Akrotiri, 17th c. BC

Thera was in contact with the Aegean world since Neolithic times. Interaction strengthened during the Early Cycladic period (3rd millennium BC) and Middle Cycladic period (c. 2000 - 1650 BC). By the beginning of the Late Cycladic (mid 17th c. BC) there were also interactions with the Greek mainland, Crete and islands in the south east Aegean as well as with lands of the Eastern Mediterranean such as Syria and Egypt.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Ostrich-egg rhyton from the East Mediterranean, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Wall painting of an "African", Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Gold ibex figurine, Akrotiri, 17th c. BC.

Probably the most famous object in the museum is a beautiful gold ibex figurine, discovered in mint condition inside a wooden box (of which nothing remains, itself inside a clay chest (larnax) at Akrotiri. Next to it was a pile of pairs of horns, mainly goats.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Fresco of an adolescent male with fish, West House, Akrotiri.
The fresco is possibly related to a rite of passage to adulthood.

On the upper floor frescoes from Akrotiri are displayed. The town was covered in volcanic material as a result of the huge eruption around 3,650 BC. Private houses had at least one room adorned with frescoes, usually on an upper storey.

The frescoes provide a valuable insight into the lives of the people of Akrotiri and the vivid maritime frescoes are a testament to their seafaring nature.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Maritime scene with dolphins, West House, Akrotiri.
Fira, Santorini

 

We spent hours in the museum but then wandered into the town to take a cliff-top walk and get lunch. We had a beer on the way at Volcan on the Rocks before heading along the cliff to the celebrated view over the blue-domed church.

Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini
Panoramic view of the caldera.
On the horizon the long island is Thirasia. To its right the strip of land is the northern end of Thera with Oia on the cliff top. Centre left is Nea Kameni (Palia Kameni is behind it), behind is the tiny islet of Aspronisi.
Fira, Santorini
Fira, Santorini
Lunchtime view over the caldera - Santorini is very popular with cruise ships.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Fira, Santorini

We had lunch at an Italian restaurant, Character, overlooking the caldera; very good pizza.

Fira, Santorini
In the foreground is Nea Kameni, middle left is the south end of Thera. In the distance, Askania and Christiana islands.

 

Karterados

 

Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini
Older homes are built into the hillside which would help to keep them cool.

 

Fira was full of tourists from the cruise ships so we didn't linger but drove a short distance to the small village of Karterados, which was deserted and full of lovely scenes: blue domed churches, cave houses, narrow alleys and painted doors. Nothing spectacular, just a nice place to stroll around.

Karterados, Santorini
Traditional windmill and memorial to those who died in WW2 in the village square.
Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini
Karterados, Santorini

 

Vothonas

Vothonas, Santorini

 

Vothonas is a lovely peaceful old village south of Karterados, narrow stepped alleys between whitewashed buildings and blue-domed churches lining a ravine of cave houses which now are mostly uninhabited.

Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini

 

Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini
Vothonas, Santorini

 

Vothonas, Santorini