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Galle International Cricket Ground, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka: Galle
February 2025

Galle Markets Cricket
Galle Fort, Sri Lanka


We enjoyed a more relaxed couple of days at Mirissa with its beautiful coastline and the bonus of a turtle hatchling release.

Galle Fort

Galle Japanese Peace Pagoda
Japanese Peace Pagoda

 

Just outside Galle, on the Rumassala Peninsula to the east, is the Peace Pagoda, built in 2002 by Japanese Buddhists. A pristine white building it stands high on the promontory from where there are fine views across the bay to Galle Fort.

Galle Japanese Peace Pagoda
Galle Fort
Galle Fort
Galle Fort
Galle Fort
Galle Black BAstion
The Black Bastion seen from one of the fort jetties.

Galle Fort dominates the city, standing high on a peninsula at the mouth of the bay where the city's harbour is located.

The Portuguese were the first Europeans to build fortifications here but all that remains of these is the Black Bastion, dating from around 1620.

Originally the fort was isolated from the mainland, separated by a moat crossed only by a drawbridge. The moat was filled in by the British in the 19th century and Galle International Cricket Ground now stands on this land.

Nearby is the Old Gate, built by the Dutch in the 17th century and cutting through the warehouses. It was the only entrance into the fort until the mid-18th century.

Galle Fort Old Gate
Old Gate
The original Dutch gate had a narrower entrance, it was widened by the British

The Dutch East India Company (VOC) was a force to be reckoned with in the 17th century. In 1640 the VOC attacked the Portuguese in Galle and took over the fort, ruling until 1796 when it was ceded to the British. Cinnamon was the main spice traded from Sri Lanka.1

Galle warehouses flanking the Old Gate
Warehouses flanking the Old Gate. Originally spice stores, they were converted for administrative use by the British.
Galle Dutch Reformed Church
The Sun Bastion at the east end of the Northern Ramparts
Looking west to the Moon and Star Bastions, on the other side of the gate, and the Clock Tower.

Galle Clock Tower and Star Bastion
Clock Tower and Star Bastion.
Galle Fort Old Gate
The Dutch East India Company crest, the date 1669, and a cockerel, for which the town is said to be named.
Galle Fort Old Gate
The British coat of arms added to the Old Gate when they changed the use of the building and widened the entrance. Below this is the date 1688, when the entrance was created by the Dutch, and below that is the VOC of the Dutch East India Company.

Galle Clock Tower and Star Bastion
Clock Tower and Star Bastion, originally named Sao Antonio.
The Clock Tower commemorates Dr P D Anthonisz, inaugural president of the Ceylon Branch of the British Medical Association.

 

 

The Northern Ramparts stretch across the peninsula, pierced by the Main Gate. Originally built by the Portuguese the three bastions on the ramparts were renamed Sun, Moon and Star from east to west by the Dutch.

Galle International Cricket Ground from the Northern Ramparts
Galle International Cricket Ground from the Northern Ramparts.
Galle Dutch Reformed Church
Groote Kerk or Dutch Reformed Church
Foundations were laid in 1682 but the church was only built between 1752 and 1755.

Galle All Saints Church
All Saints Anglican Church
Consecrated 1871.
Galle Lighthouse
Galle Lighthouse

Galle Lighthouse was built on Utrecht Bastion on the Southern Ramparts in 1940.

Galle
The old harbour and piers below the fort.
Galle Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple
Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple
Galle Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple
Western Ramparts
Galle Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple
Lloyd Naval Signal Station on the Neptune Bastion on the Western Ramparts.
Galle Taphouse
Galle Fort Hotel
Our room at the Galle Fort Hotel.
Galle

It was extremely hot and we had very welcome beers with a plate of fries and ketchup in the Taphouse which is in the old Dutch hospital at the south end of Law Court Square.

We stayed at the Galle Fort Hotel, a lovely old hotel inside the ramparts of the fort. It dates back to the time of the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century.

Galle Fort Hotel
Galle Fort Hotel
Galle Fort Hotel
Ropewalk cocktail bar at the Galle Fort Hotel.

There cocktail bar staff mixed very good, unusual cocktails: the "Ropewalk" was 45 day spice-infused Old Cask Arrak (34%), sous vide ginger and lemongrass syrup with fresh lime juice: the "Pickled" had orange peel, maraschino cherry, cinnamon and star anise steeped for 14 days in Ascot Regal dry gin, combined with lime juice and simple syrup.

Galle Fort Hotel Ropewalk cocktails
Pickled and Ropewalk cocktails and freshly roasted cashews.
Galle Fort Hotel
Dinner at Galle Fort Hotel.
Galle Fort Hotel

 

We ate only one evening at Galle Fort Hotel: Cabinet Chicken with parathas, a very spicy fish sambal, a quite strong onion salad and very nice sauce. A glass of white wine and a lot of sparkling water - it was very warm and humid but not too bad eating outside on the terrace above the pool.

Galle Fort Hotel

 

Markets

Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Fishermen hauling in nets.
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Some fishermen sell their fresh catch directly on the beach.
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Traditional single outrigger fishing boat.
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets

 

We spent a good deal of time at the fish market not far from Galle Fort where fishermen were hauling huge nets out of the sea and onto the beach. This was very labour-intensive and looked like very hard work.

Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets
Galle Fort in the background.
Galle Bay fishermen hauling in nets

The market alongside had loads of tuna as well as red mullet, prawns, parrot fish and much more.

Galle fish market
Galle fish market
Galle fish market
Galle fish market
Tuna
Galle fish market
Galle fish market
Parrot Fish
Galle Salvation Army
The Salvation Army has a strong presence in Sri Lanka.

Galle fruit
Always plenty of bananas.

Galle cassava and ginger,
Cassava and ginger root.
Cassava is a source of carbohydrate but must be cooked - it's toxic if eaten raw.

We went on for a brief visit to other markets and stores selling fresh produce before heading for lunch at the Galle Cricket Ground.

Galle buffalo curd
Stacks of buffalo curd.
We both liked this and had it usually at breakfast, for instance with granola, but also after a main course with jaggery and syrup.

Galle flowers

 

Cricket

Galle International Cricket Club

 

An idyllic lunchtime spent at the Galle Cricket Ground. We'd asked our guide to arrange this for us and invited him to lunch there with us.

Galle International Cricket Club
Bliss.

We ordered beers (Ruwan had coke) and settled down to watch.

 

Galle International Cricket Club

 

We were given a table next to the scorers. Two Premier League sides were playing: Negombo (batting in the first innings of a three day game) vs Baduralya S C.

Galle International Cricket Club
Galle International Cricket Club
Galle International Cricket Club
Galle International Cricket Club

At lunch, around mid-day, Negombo were 81 for 2.

I had excellent battered prawns with a dipping sauce and chips, Andrew had sweet and sour chicken, also very good.

The scorers were really lovely and allowed me to look at the score sheets which very intricately record such details as bowling analysis, runs scored, how batsmen are out and the length of time at the crease.

Galle International Cricket Club

 

References

  1. Dutch Trading Post Heritage Network: Galle