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Antarctic Tern, Hercules Bay, South Georgia

Antarctica: South Georgia - Stromness, Hercules Bay
February 2024

Stromness Hercules Bay
Macaroni Penguins, Hercules Bay, South Georgia

 

Stromness, where Sir Ernest Shackleton finally arrived after his epic journey from Elephant Island. A cliffside colony of Macaroni Penguins at Hercules Bay plus King Penguins, Gentoos and a lone Chinstrap.

Stromness

South Georgia Leith whaling station
Leith whaling station near the mouth of Stromness Bay.

 

 

From Godthul on South Georgia we moved off to Stromness whaling station, passing Leith whaling station near the mouth of Stromness Bay.

Stromness was the station that Ernest Shackleton, Tom Crean and Frank Worsley eventually reached after their epic sea journey from Elephant Island, a distance of 800 nautical miles in a tiny boat, only 22 feet long.

The James Caird, originally one of the lifeboats of the Endurance, was strengthened and made as seaworthy as possible by Harry McNish, the carpenter of the expedition. He, Timothy McCarthy and John Vincent completed the crew of the small boat, leaving 22 men behind on Elephant Island waiting to be rescued.

 

Elephant Island party waving goodbye to James Caird state library nsw a423041h

The James Caird leaves Elephant Island.
Frank Hurley, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

 

South Georgia replica of the James Caird
Replica of the James Caird in Grytviken museum.
South Georgia Stromness Bay
South Georgia Stromness Bay

 

The James Caird, and its six crew, weathered stormy seas and enormous waves to reach the west coast of South Georgia thanks in large part to the navigation skills of Worsley, though the horrific weather made it difficult, relying on being able to see the sun, at least at intervals. Over the course of the journey Worsley was able to make only four direct calculations when the sun put in a brief appearance but he was renowned for his "dead reckoning", calculating present position from a previous position with estimates of speed of travel, direction and time lapsed.

South Georgia Stromness Bay and Stromness whaling station
Stromness whaling station at the head of Stromness Bay.
South Georgia Stromness whaling station
The large cylindrical tanks stored whale oil.
There were hundreds of seals on the shore.
South Georgia Stromness whaling station

After losing two days due to mountainous seas, and enduring a hurricane, they eventually landed at King Haakon Bay on the north west of South Georgia. The three then had to cross the mountains to reach Stromness, formidable terrain even in good weather and with the right equipment and clothing which they didn't have. To give their boots more grip on the snow and ice they pierced the soles with screws. Crossing a pass (now Shackleton Gap) between King Haakon Bay and Possession Bay they walked 30 miles - although on one memorable occasion they formed a three man "sled" and slid down a steep, snow-covered mountainside - to Stromness where they knocked at the station manager's door.

South Georgia Stromness whaling station
South Georgia Stromness Bay
On the way out of the bay.
South Georgia Leith whaling station on the way out of the bay
Leith whaling station on the way out of the bay.
South Georgia Stromness Bay
Wonderful folded rock strata at the mouth of the bay.

 

Hercules Bay

 south georgia icebergs

 

South Georgia

 

Hercules Bay is north of Stromness Bay around Cape Saunders. We were making our way there to see the penguin colonies, mainly Macaroni and King penguins, but there were also Gentoos and a lone Chinstrap.


South Georgia Hercules Bay
Approaching the Macaroni penguin colony on the cliffs of Hercules Bay.
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Antarctic Tern
Antarctic Tern

The Macaroni Penguins inhabit the cliffs and the best way to see them is by Zodiac.

South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
Macaroni Penguins

They are quite large and have distinctive orange crest feathers, rather like quills tucked behind the ear!

South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
White guano covers the cliffs above the reach of the sea.

 

 

South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins

 

South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
It's a steep haul out of the sea and we saw many a penguin slip back in.
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
A lone Chinstrap Penguin, bottom left, in amongst the Macaronis.
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
Courtesy of Keith Thompson, photographer with Quark Expeditions.

 

 

South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
A very young Macaroni chick still covered in down.

 

South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Hercules Bay Gentoos and Antarctic Fur Seals
Gentoos and Antarctic Fur Seals.
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Hercules Bay
South Georgia Hercules Bay

 

 

 

South Georgia Hercules Bay

On the shore there were many King Penguins along with Macaronis and Gentoos.

South Georgia Hercules Bay
King Penguin chicks grooming off the downy feathers.
South Georgia Hercules Bay South Georgia Pintail
South Georgia Pintail
South Georgia Hercules Bay
South Georgia Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins
South Georgia Hercules Bay icebergs

It had been a long, wonderful day, and as we returned to the ship the pilot of the Zodiac took us on detour around the icebergs. There were a lot of penguins in the water, they are amazingly fast.

South Georgia Hercules Bay icebergs
South Georgia sunsets

As we were having dinner that evening the sunset was magnificent, so more photos were called for!

South Georgia sunsets
South Georgia sunsets