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Scilla, Calabria, Italy

Italy: Reggio Calabria, Scilla, Vibo Valentia
April 2024

Reggio Calabria Scilla Vibo Valentia
Riace Bronze, Reggio Calabria

 

Reggio Calabria to see the magnificent 2,500 year old Riace Bronzes, the pleasant seaside town of Scilla and a fine castle in Vibo Valentia.

Reggio Calabria

Reggio Calabria
The promenade with Sicily and Etna across the Ionian Sea.
Reggio Calabria
Theatre on the promenade with a statue of the Greek goddess Athena, dedicated to the last king of Italy, Emanuele III.

 

It was quite a tiring drive to Reggio calabria from Tropea where we were staying but we were keen to go to Reggio Calabria, particularly to see the Riace Bronzes.

Reggio Calabria
Etna on Sicily.
Reggio Calabria
Statue of the goddess Athena.

 

 

We parked on a beautiful long promenade by the sea, Sicily and Etna looking very close.

 

The archaeological museum is very interesting with exhibits from Paleolithic times to Roman.1

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
The famous engraving of an aurochs, at least 12,000 years old (cast). The original is at the entrance to a cave in the Cosenza region. It must have been important, both practically and symbolically, to the Paleolithic people of the region.
Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Typical funeral practice in the Middle Bronze Age (1700-1300BC) in the region was to bury the body in a squat position inside a large jar called a dolium. The baking pan was used as a lid.

 

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Found as part of grave goods; from the end of the Early Iron Age (830-720BC).

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum

Detail of head from a 1.3m statue of a young boy(original height; the statue is now missing the lower legs). Sculpted by a local artist in marble brought from the Greek island of Paros. Circa 500BC.

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Reggio Calabria lunch at Adduma
Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Gorgon's Head from the Temple of Apollo at Ciro Marina.
4th century BC.
Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Reconstruction of decoration on a 5th century BC temple in Kaulonia.
The lions heads also served to drain water from the roof.

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Detail from a floor mosaic of hunters and dogs attacking a bear.
Late 2nd - early first century AD.
Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum
Bronze head recovered from the same shipwreck as the Riace warriors.

The undoubted highlight are the Riace bronzes in their climate-controlled room.

Dating from the 5th century BC they were recovered from Riace marina in 1972. Greek in origin, representing warriors or gods, perhaps athletes, they stand almost 2m high and have the same stance. They would originally have worn a helmet and carried a spear and shield.

Reggio Calabria Archaeological Museum

After the museum we had a very good steak at Adduma, preceded by prosciutto and mozzarella antipasto.

Reggio Calabria lunch at Adduma

Then on to Scilla.

 

Scilla

Scilla

 

Scilla is a pleasant small coastal town with a castle on a promontory.

Scilla
Statue of the nymph Scylla turned into a sea monster by the witch Circe.

According to Greek legend, the sea monster Scylla is said to guard a narrow strait, associated with the Strait of Messina, and where Scilla now stands is said to be the location of her lair. Hence the name of the town.

Scilla

We visited the castle but there isn't very much to see. A fortification has stood here since the time of the Etruscans, occupied by the Greeks and later the Romans.2

Scilla
Scilla
Scilla
A magnificent Nativity inside the castle - the landscape is modelled on Scilla.

 

Vibo Valentia

Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle

 

Vibo Valentia has a long history, being with the 7th century BC Greek colony of Hipponion, which became Hipponium under the Romans from 192 BC. We visited the Archaeological Museum, housed in the Norman-Swabian castle, to look at some of that history.

Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle

 

Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle
Vibo Valentia Castle
Bronze helmet.
Sanctuary of Scrimbia.
6th c BC

 

It is a fine, solidly-built castle with massive cylindrical towers and double gateways. From the castle walls the view stretches over the city to the coast.

 

Vibo Valentia Castle
A collection of votives in the form of terracotta female heads.
4th-3rd c BC
Vibo Valentia Castle
Bronze Corinthian helmet.
Sanctuary of Scrimbia.
6th c BC
Vibo Valentia Castle
A collection of bronze mirrors from the sanctuary of Scrimbia.
6th-4th c BC
Vibo Valentia Castle
Bronze helmet.
Sanctuary of Scrimbia.
6th c BC
Vibo Valentia Castle
Bronze helmet.
Sanctuary of Scrimbia.
6th c BC

Sixteen bronze helmets dating from the 6th century BC were found in the sanctuary of Scrimbia. Many had been deliberately disfigured or deformed. This was a common practice amongst the Greeks when an item was made as an offering in order to prevent them being reused and to affirm their sacred value.

Vibo Valentia Castle
The Orphic Lamina
5th c BC

The most precious object in the museum is the Orphic Lamina, a small sheet of very thin gold on which is inscribed a Greek text. It was found in the grave of a woman dating from the 5th century BC. The writing is a set of instructions on what the woman should do when she reaches the afterlife.

 

References

  1. Museo Archeologico Nazionale Reggio Calabria
  2. Turismo Reggio Calabria: The Ruffo di Scilla Castle