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Bryn Celli Ddu, Anglesey, Wales

Wales: Isle of Anglesey
July 2024

Cemaes Bay - Porth Llanlleiana Cemlyn Nature Reserve Beaumaris Castle Bryn Celli Ddu Plas Newydd
Beaumaris Castle

 

Anglesey has a wide range of attractions including a lovely coastal walk from Cemaes Bay, our favourite castle at Beaumaris and a neolithic burial site.

Cemaes Bay - Porth Llanlleiana

Cemaes Bay
Cemaes Bay

 

This was a great circular walk, with a lot of up and down cliff trail so quite strenuous.1

Cemaes Bay
Cemaes Bay

Starting at Cemaes Bay we headed north through countryside then turned west to Porth Llanlleiana.

Cemaes Bay
Porth Llaniana

Here there is an old abandoned clay works, looking quite atmospheric in its small bay between headlands. Clay dug out from the hillside was transported from the small harbour in the nearby cove for the manufacture of porcelain.

Porth Llaniana
Approaching Porth Llanlleiana.
Porth Llaniana
Entrance to the small cove at Porth Llanlleiana.
Anglesey
Anglesey
Porth Padrig
Porth Padrig
Porth Llaniana
The clay works at Porth Llanlleiana.
Anglesey
Porth Padrig
Porth Padrig

Porth Padrig is a lovely spot, a wide bay with an impressive monolithic rock, the final bay on the coastal stretch before reaching Cemaes Bay.

 

Cemlyn Nature Reserve

Cemlyn Nature Reserve

There was a large colony of nesting terns here, mostly Sandwich but also Arctic and Common terns. A warden was very informative about there habits and numbers. At the height of the breeding season this year there were around 7,000 terns - 4,000 adults and 3,000 chicks - a good breeding season the warden said.

Cemlyn Nature Reserve

We walked along the shingle ridge, which was very hard going, and then back to the car along country lanes.

 

Beaumaris Castle

Beaumaris Castle

 

 

Beaumaris Castle, dating from 1295 though never completed, is very impressive with a wide moat, inner and outer walls and corridors within walls - it was our favourite of all the castles we visited.

Beaumaris Castle

The last of many castles built by Edward 1st it was designed by his master mason, James of St George.

Beaumaris Castle

It stands on flat marshy ground, hence the name which means "beautiful marsh". The space between the inner and outer walls was overlooked by tall towers in the inner wall with arrow slits, perfect for firing on intruders.

Beaumaris Castle
At high tide ships could sail along the moat to a door in the outer walls to unload their goods.
Beaumaris Castle
Outer and inner walls.

With the deep moat, walls up to 4.8m thick, many arrow slits and "murder holes" the castle was designed for defence, but also had luxurious suites.

Beaumaris Castle
Outer wall and moat.
Beaumaris Castle

Murder holes are holes in masonry from which objects could be hurled down onto invaders. A popular myth has it that boiling oil was poured from the murder holes.

Beaumaris Castle
Entrance through the inner wall.

 

The castle last saw action during the English Civil War. It was a Royalist stronghold but eventually surrendered to parliamentary forces in 1646.

 

Bryn Celli Ddu

Bryn Celli Ddu
The entrance of the chamber tomb.
Bryn Celli Ddu

 

A beautifully preserved chambered tomb 4,000 years old.

The tomb was surrounded by a henge - a ditch and stone circle - which was the first stage of this site to be built, followed by the passage tomb.

Bryn Celli Ddu
Entrance to the tomb.
Bryn Celli Ddu

The rear of the tomb and end of the tomb chamber with the space between stones through which the sun shines on midsummer morning at dawn.
Bryn Celli Ddu
The rear of the tomb.

A grass mound covers a passage tomb, the entrance leading through a tunnel to a chamber with a vertical space between large stones to the outside. At midsummer when the sun rises it shines directly through the slit illuminating the chamber and tunnel.

Bryn Celli Ddu
Looking down the tunnel inside the tomb towards the burial chamber. It is roofed with huge, flat, stone slabs.

 

Bryn Celli Ddu
Looking back down the tunnel inside the tomb to the entrance.
Bryn Celli Ddu
A stone monolith inside the tomb.

 

 

Plas Newydd

Plas Newydd

 

This National Trust property was once the home of the Marquess of Anglesey, Wellington's head of cavalry.

Plas Newydd

The grounds are home to red squirrels but we didn't see any on our walk through the magnificent stands of trees before the house opened.

Plas Newydd
Plas Newydd
Plas Newydd
Part of a mural by Rex Whistler.
Plas Newydd

The house is in a wonderful setting, overlooking the Menai Strait.The rooms are full of paintings and there are several ornate bedrooms and Victorian bathrooms.

Plas Newydd

The best thing there, in our opinion, is the wonderful Rex Whistler mural with many recognisable London landmarks and a broken Windsor Castle, symbolising the abdication of Edward VIII in 1936.

Plas Newydd
Detail from the mural by Rex Whistler showing the artist with a rather different brush in hand.
Plas Newydd
Part of a mural by Rex Whistler.
Plas Newydd
Part of a mural by Rex Whistler.

 

The Marquess of Anglesey, at the time the Earl of Uxbridge, lost a leg a Waterloo. One of his replacement wooden legs is kept here in a glass case. The episode sparked a famous exchange between Anglesey: "By God, sir, I've lost my leg!" and Wellington: "By God, sir, so you have!".

 

Plas Newydd
One of Anglesey's wooden legs.
Plas Newydd
Dolmens in the grounds.

Returning to the car we detoured to visit a couple of dolmens in the grounds, actually on the cricket pitch, which is now a meadow, though the cricket pavilion is intact.

 

Plas Newydd
Stables across a meadow in the grounds.

 

On the way back from Plas Newydd we stopped at Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch to post cards.

Plas Newydd

More commonly known as Lllanfair PG, the name means "St Mary's Church in the hollow of the white hazel near the rapid whirlpool and the church of St Tysilio close to the red cave" though it is probably a 19th century invention to attract tourists.

 

References

  1. Cemaes Circular Walk, Anglesey (PDF)